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FASHION

Queer Fashion

Is there a dress code for the gay community? How is queer fashion different than fashion in general? Is there a difference at all? Is queer fashion about the clothes, or about the person wearing them? Is there a queer way to dress? or a recognizable queer aesthetic? Do queer designers make inherently queer clothes? Is rainbow the new black?

What is meant by queer fashion? In the media and at various public events, we are exposed to edgy clothing styles by such celebrities as RuPaul, Billy Porter, Lady Gaga, Harry Styles, Cara Delevingne, Troye Sivan, Ruby Rose, Todrick Hall, Janelle Monae, and others. Are these outfits exclusively queer?

Fashion, by definition, simply denotes the clothing styles and trends accepted by the majority of a culture at any given time. That said, style acceptation and expression can be different among smaller niche groups, whether it’s based on geographical location, age groups or other demographic segments. From a purely marketing perspective, queer fashion simply denotes fashion styles accepted and worn by the LGBTQ community at large. And certainly, within that community are smaller “fashion tribes” that subscribe to certain looks, or approaches to dress.

In terms of queer fashion, certain styles have emerged that have meaning beyond their functionality, or trends in general. Perhaps the most infamous is the pink triangle. Originally used by Nazis to identify queer people for the death camps, the pink triangle has now been adopted by queer people to represent queer identity. Additionally, the color pink has continued to be associated with gay culture, as well as lavender. After all, the color purple is the merging of blue and pink (typically associated with male and female), to suggest a more fluid gender and sexual identity. Other historical examples include suede shoes, shoelaces (rather than buckles), red neck ties and bleached hair. More recently, the idea of a queer haircut has emerged, especially for queer women.

Because queer people are typically forced to “come out” in a heteronormative society, part of this “coming out” process involves externalizing identity and eschewing clothing styles that previously felt constrictive. In a sense, queer people are subverting and/or rejecting the meaning of clothes given by a culture or community and investing clothes with new meaning. Subversion typically operates within accepted gender binaries. Examples might include a cis-female wearing a man’s suit, or a cis-male wearing makeup. Rejection predictably operates outside accepted gender binaries. Examples might include cis-males who keep a beard and wear makeup, or cis-females who wear a men’s suit and pair it with stiletto heels. These subversions and rejections can be evaluated in terms of societal norms on a whole, but can also be considered within the queer community itself. Certain styles of clothing, including butch or femme, denote the “tribe” a person considers themselves to be a part of, providing symbolic queer meaning that doesn’t exist in the greater fashion community.

Clearly, queer fashion operates as a subset of the larger fashion system. While queer style overlays with fashion trends in general, the queer community has historically adapted these trends to their own needs. While not as obvious, queer clothing can also be utilitarian, providing solutions to problems experienced primarily by queer people. And finally, clothes are given meaning by society in general, often with an intrinsic moral code built in. Queer people often must subvert or reject these meanings and find their own, often allowing for greater visibility, within subsets of the queer community.

[Source: Joshua Williams, Queer Cut, Nov 2018]

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Genderqueer Fashion

Genderqueer fashion is fashion among genderqueer people that goes beyond common style conventions that usually associate certain colors and shapes with one of the two binary genders. Genderqueer fashion aims to be perceived by consumers as a fashion style that focuses on experimenting garments based on people's different body shapes instead of following the restrictions given by gendered clothing categorization. Genderqueer style is characterized by the choice to not conform to gender norms assigned at birth. Its purpose is to redefine what is considered feminine and masculine.

This differentiation between gender norms through clothing became preponderant during the nineteenth century and it mainly involved different fabrics, trims and constructions for different genders. Those distinctions were meant to mirror gender roles in society as masculine clothing aimed to be practical while female fashion was perceived as purely aesthetic.

Therefore, there is a historical dimension to the association between fashion and gender identity. Nonetheless, gender expression today is recognized by the LGBTQ community as a very personal and subjective behavior. Genderqueer style is therefore intrinsically tied to identity, and as such, it includes a vast range of aesthetics.

According to contemporary criticism, gender becomes through fashion a form of body style which is a fundamental part of self-realization and presentation as it creates a bridge between individual identity and society. The genderqueer fashion style tries to recode this relation, although encountering several restrictions in the mass production of commonly binary goods.

There is an additional layer of risk for humans assigned male at birth who want to present feminine by wearing dresses and makeup, since the act itself is likely to attract unwanted attention. There's a material consequence to a male presenting feminine, and there's not a material consequence to a female presenting masculine. When a male wears lipstick, or puts on earrings, or wears a skirt, his entire reality shifts.

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Patrick Church

Arin Hayes
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Andrew Morrison
Rio Uribe
Marco Marco
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Scott Studenberg
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Rachel Berks
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Queer Fashion Changing Society

Queer style is systemically rooted in gender nonconformity and intrinsically tied to our identities. It dismantles limiting style rules that have been methodically employed as a means of symbolically and literally perpetuating restrictive binaries and oppressing freedom of expression. Queer style is a fashion revolution, one of the most stylish forms of protest of our generation. Fashion has historically been political, particularly for marginalized groups. From the flapper dress to the Zoot suit to Laverne Cox and Caitlyn Jenner gracing the covers of mainstream glossies, how communities and individuals express themselves through clothing can be a form of visual activism, even when that may not have been the original intent.

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The LGBTQ community is at the forefront of revolutionizing the way in which we look at garments in relation to our gender performance and expression. Queer style exemplifies the basic principle that style is a personal, curated, artistic reflection of who we are on the inside, and by fearlessly breaking norms, we have created a social movement that enables every member of our society to benefit from less restrictive, less oppressive ways of expressing ourselves.

Of course, the fashion industry is always looking for new markets and trends from which to generate profits, so queer style is "in" right now from an economic perspective. Fashion designers and media are feverishly trying to capitalize on the “gender neutral” and “gender ambiguous” trend. As noted in many fashion articles, “gender lines are blurring.”

This fashion trend features designers with gender-free labels capitalizing on fashion’s gender blur, the narrowing of the sexual divide bent on eroding the once rigid demarcation between conventionally feminine and masculine clothes. Some fashion experts attribute this phenomenon to a revival of ’60s and ’70s unisex trends, and give some credit to the growing visibility and success, both socio-politically and economically, of queer style.

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Queer-Led Fashion Brands

Though androgyny is a hot trend in mainstream fashion, and though the majority of start-up “queer style” brands are focusing on producing masculine attire, it must be noted that androgyny and masculinity do not fully represent queer style. Feminine queer fashion is radical and deserves space in the queer style narrative too, because it challenges the gender, racial, ethnic, cultural, age, and size beauty norms set forth by the fashion industry. Feminine queer style is all about reclaiming and redefining femininity. In some contexts, feminine queer style is being unapologetically feminine in response to pressures from queer-normativity and heteronormativity to present more masculine. In other contexts, it is about dressing how you feel inside and walking with pride in spite of potentially experiencing street harassment or violence.

Irrespective of whether the fashion industry recognizes queer style as profitable, legitimate, or trendy, queer style will remain political and will continue to flourish as a social movement.

[Source: Anita Dolce Vita, Advocate]

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Gender Fluid Fashion at the Oscars

Gender-fluid fashion was the real winner at the 2019 Academy Awards event. Stars like Billy Porter, Amy Poehler, Jason Momoa, Elsie Fisher, Awkwafina, Stephen James, and Sandy Powell were their authentic selves on the Red Carpet.

For years we got used to men’s red carpet looks as often boring. Everyone wears the same black tux. Women, on the other hand, bring glamour and beauty to award ceremonies but are often reduced to just those attributes.

These discrepancies bring to light the central problem of fashion: why are men and women’s clothing choices so different? Fashion is political. Feminist critiques of clothes would point out that women’s dresses put aesthetics above function or mobility, while men’s clothing is designed with purpose and not ‘prettiness’ in mind. These questions (of gendered clothing, sexual politics, and the like) have existed in fashion for a long time.

In the 1960s-1970s, as gender relations in the first world shifted, gender-fluid or androgynous fashion made its mark on the runway. ‘Modern’ women preferred practical clothing but the neutral fashion produced during this era often just put women in masculine clothes without changing men’s fashion. Now (after many decades) gender-fluid clothing has made a fierce comeback in the past few years. Recently, designers at prominent fashion shows have made clothing that can fit either sex and both male and female designs have evolved.

We live in an era with shifting ideas of gender expression, identity, and equality and fashion are changing dramatically. And the fashion statements on the red carpet are no exception.

[Source: Saira Mahmood, Tempest, March 2019]

Androgynous Fashion Models

Andrja Pejic
Rain Dove
Katherine Moennig
Casey Legler
Agynes Deyn
Stav Strashko
Willy Cartier
Bradley Soileau
Feja Beha Erichsen

Miles McMillan
Tamy Glauser
Jaco van den Hoven
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Teddy Quinlivan
Jaye Davidson
Jenny Shimizu
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Short History of Queer Fashion

1700s - Homosexuality was illegal in Europe, which led to the emergence of small and secret homosexual subcultures. Its members, known as mollies, would cross-dress in private to self-identify and attract partners. In public, though, there were secret dress codes that allowed gay men and lesbians to identify each other.

1890s - One of the century’s most influential writers, Oscar Wilde’s flamboyant sense of style was as much of an influence as his seminal works. His flowing hair, floral accessories, loosely tied collars, breeches and fur-trimmed overcoats spoke of his self-expression of dandyism, evolving with his personal and public image.

1920s - Women adopted menswear in rebellion against patriarchy. Movie stars like Marlene Dietrich played a major role in popularizing androgynous dressing styles. The Harlem “Drag" Balls also offered a space where people could privately wear clothing of the opposite gender.

1930s - As closeted gay couturiers such as Christian Dior, Pierre Balmain and Cristóbal Balenciaga rose in the fashion industry, they experimented with both idealized and transgressive styles. For example, Dior’s 1947 “New Look" was an exaggerated presentation of the idealized female form.

1950s - Women increasingly began to wear trousers, traditionally worn by men. Until the 1970s, the trouser also served as an identifier for lesbians, though not everyone adopted it. Some women preferred feminine clothing, playing a role in the emergence of the “butch" and “femme" identities.

1960s - Queer subcultures became more visible, especially in London’s Carnaby Street. Mod and hippie styles gained fame and men became more interested in fashion. Androgyny became part of the counterculture’s style language.

1970s - The Stonewall Riots of 1969 paved the way for a change in gay men’s fashion sensibilities. While the riots were started by transgender “street queens" such as Marsha P. Johnson, who opted for feminine styles, men opted for hypermasculine styles. Feminist politics also saw women moving towards “anti-fashion".

1980s - The AIDS crisis changed the way gay men consumed fashion, swapping hypermasculinity for subversive styles. Lesbians gradually shed their “butch" and “femme" binaries for new ways of dressing, influenced by different cultures.

1990s - Queer fashion extended its influence on the runway, especially when it came to subjects perceived as social taboos. French designer Jean Paul Gaultier, who had created his campy cone-bustier dress in 1984, went on to make skirts for men. Gianni Versace explored BDSM in his 1992 collection, Miss S&M

2000 Onwards - The new millennium looks beyond gender binaries. Principles of diversity and inclusivity have redefined LGBTQ+ style while also changing the contours of mainstream fashion. The idea of genderless clothing has prospered, starting with designers like Rick Owens, who has implemented it in his brand since 2002.

[Source: Shubham Ladha, Live Mint, Jun 2019]

Femme One Day, Stud the Next Day

The more queer women recover from the femme/stud dichotomy, we are discovering a love for more fluid presentations in fashion.

A lot of lesbians and bi women have been categorized as “lipstick lesbians,” “femmes,” “studs,” or “stems” based largely on their fashion choices. Some people take pride in their labels, while others believe labels should be left for clothes. Either way, style isn’t necessarily always about dressing girly or butch. You can be girly or butch if you want to, but you don’t have to be. Some people find comfort in switching back and forth between traditionally masculine and feminine clothing. It can be a freeing and fun way to experiment with your wardrobe.

A dash of dapper. Buttoned shirt and tapered pants/shorts. This is a classic tomboy outfit that’s perfect for any time of year, especially in the summer with short sleeved cotton shirts. If you’re feeling a bit bolder, definitely go for vibrant prints in your buttoned shirts. Buttoning the shirt up all the way up (top-button swag) can also help elevate your look. White chucks or any other sneakers pair perfectly with this outfit too.

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Colorful/Patterned suits. Fitted suits are already a popular dapper trend, but reaching for a brighter color like red can definitely make you stand out. Different patterns like tartan or plaid can help you change up your style too. Bralettes and suits both match really well and are a different way to dress up. Three-piece suits are another classic.

A Touch of Femme. Midi-dresses and oversized shirts are comfortable in length and have a certain street style look when worn with sneakers. These outfits are simple, because the dress or shirt is the whole look. There’s also a large variety in the kinds of prints, patterns, and colors you can choose. If you have white sneakers especially, any dress can easily match with them.

Comfy Rompers or Jumpsuits. A summertime favorite for a reason, rompers and jumpsuits are also cohesive outfits that don’t require a lot of effort. If you stick to cotton or linen fabrics, you’ll be both stylish and comfortable. Feel free to play around with textures and patterns like chambray or stripes to fit your specific look too. These outfits can be paired with sneakers or sandals.

Keeping it Casual. Ripped Jeans and T-shirt. When it comes to casual outfits, ripped jeans and a T-shirt are a staple. Not only are they comfortable, but they’re also edgy in a subtle way. They’re super versatile too. You can dress them up with a formal top or formal shoes like oxfords, or you can keep it more casual with a baseball tee or simple colors. Any kind of shoes work with this outfit, but if you’re looking for a style upgrade, go for boat shoes or patterned slip-ons

Athleisure. When all else fails and you’re staring at your closet like you have nothing to wear, athleisure is the perfect go-to. Not only is it a popular trend, but you can wear this kind of clothing in any way you want. You can make it your own by choosing bright or neutral color schemes. Aside from color, you can mix patterns and go for a baggier or looser fit too. It’s a really stylish way to be comfortable.

[Source: Qwear, DNA Co.]

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Gender Fluid Fashion Trends

If two of the planet's biggest pop stars sign up for a fashion trend, you know there must be something going on. Rihanna posted a photo of herself on Instagram wearing a T-shirt by London-based fashion label Art School to her 76.8 million followers. Harry Styles released his video for Lights Up in which he wears a blue silk moire suit designed by Harris Reed, a long-time collaborator.

Art School and Harris Reed all classify as non-binary tags. Art School describes itself as "a non-binary queer luxury brand," while Harris Reed is "fighting for fluidity elegance." While there's a long tradition of trendy LGBTQ designers (McQueen and Lagerfeld among the most famous), they've been cis-identifying white men in particular. The fashion label of "non-binary" is new and relevant to a younger generation where more than one in ten millennials identifies as transgender or non-conforming. There is a handful of new fashion brands, ranging from One DNA to Riley Studio, offering everyone the same clothing, and where it feels out of date to split the style into gendered lines.

"Fashion used to be very linear. It was men's or women's, and you could never cross between the two," Preston Souza, chief of staff and buyer at The Phluid Project, the first gender-free clothing shop in New York, explained. "And what's nice is that these brands are being dismissed by Generation Z. Sixty percent of Generation Z will shop across gendered areas, evidence that these patriarchal constructs are slowly phasing out. "Younger stars like Billie Eilish, Yungblud and Lil Uzi Vert dress androgynously and talk openly about shopping between genders." "The women's section is way better than the men's section," Lil Uzi Vert said in an interview with GQ.

Mainstream fashion is a catch-up game. New York fashion week included 36 models identifying as transgender or un-conforming gender, while Pose actress Indya Moore was the first non-binary individual to be the Louis Vuitton campaign's head.

"It's not about a girl wearing a suit or a guy wearing a shoe, it's about feeling yourself and experiencing the vision and look," said Fader designer Christopher John Rogers, who dressed Michelle Obama, Lizzo and whose label won the coveted CFDA / Vogue Fashion Fund award. "It's about queerness when you completely reflect your unique complexities when you dress up."

"The next move is to avoid seeing gender fluidity as a phenomenon," says fashion and lifestyle blogger Ben Pechey, "but to see us as real people and to ensure more equality, protection and respect for the queer community."

[Source: Industry Global News, Nov 2019]

Queer Fashion: More Than Just a Trend

Androgynous looks are being embraced by the mainstream fashion world, from male-inspired clothing for women to gender-bending models on the runway. But queer fashion isn’t just for looks. It’s a much larger social movement.

Anita Dolce Vita (DapperQ’s editor-in-chief) said that, while queer fashion is undefinable because it is specific to the individual, it is “systemically rooted in gender non-conformity. It is all about breaking gender binaries and redefining femininity, masculinity and everything in between and outside of."

Leon Wu (founder and CEO of Sharpe Suiting) also joined the conversation and said queer fashion is not a niche market. “In being queer designers, we have a specific look or a specific way we want our clothes to fit,” Wu said. “But I’m hearing also from cisgender folks as well as heteronormative folks that they like our clothes and they want to be able to embody masculinity and femininity on their own terms as well.”

Vita also pinpointed a subcategory of queer fashion for femme-identifying women who are “reclaiming and redefining femininity” in an attempt to challenge society’s constricting praise of masculinity. “Femme fashion to me is just unapologetically femme in its response to pressures from queer-normativity and heteronormativity to present more masculine and more androgynous,” Vita said.

While androgynous styles have been embraced by mainstream culture in the past, Vita hopes this time around it’s also reflecting people’s changing attitudes about gender identity and expression. “Queer fashion is not just a trend, but it is a lasting social movement and it’s a social movement that benefits everyone,” she said.

[Source: Kira Brekke, Huffington Post, Feb 2016]